If you’re heading south from Perth and wondering how far east to go… the answer is Esperance, or more specifically Cape Le Grand National Park and its breathtakingly beautiful coastline. Rolling hills, white sand, turquoise surf, and kangaroos, what more could you want?
This small coastal town in the Bay of Isles has everything you need to survive a few more days on this never-ending and potentially bankrupting road trip. Buy some groceries, some $5 bottles of water and fill up your car with the most expensive gas south of Perth. Then get out and drive straight to Cape Le Grand National Park to relax.
Cape Le Grand National Park
The first thing you need to know is that you can camp in the park. Get up as early as physically possible and be prepared for a fight to the death over one of the few camping spots next to the gorgeous and seemingly endless Le Grand Beach. If you’re not camping then chill out here for a while before moving on.
I would definitely recommend driving all the way out to Rossiter Bay at the opposite end of the park first, just to say you’ve seen it. It’s a long and bumpy unsealed road but the beach is huge if a little overrun with seaweed. If you’re not that bothered, or short on time, you wouldn’t be missing out on much if you skipped it in my opinion.
As you’re driving through the park you’ll pass Frenchman’s Peak, a ‘mountain’ with a hole in the top of it that makes for some amazing photos. It’s a steep 3km, 2-hour climb so make sure you have plenty of water. I kind of regret not doing it…. but I wanted maximum beach time, as if I hadn’t had enough of that already.
Lucky Bay must be one of the most photographed beaches in WA thanks to the kangaroos that are usually found hopping along the white sand, with the turquoise surf as a backdrop. It’s a gorgeous spot and you could easily spend a few hours here. There’s also a campsite if things don’t work out at Le Grand Beach!
If and when you find a kangaroo, give it some space especially if it has a joey, it’s still a wild animal and probably doesn’t enjoy your selfies as much as a quokka.
If a spirit animal is a thing, then a spirit place must be a thing too, and I found mine in Hellfire Bay. I’ve never seen such a beautiful beach. This tiny bay surrounded by rolling hills is stunning, you can relax on the soft white sand and swim in the clearest water I’ve ever seen or climb the rocks and spot the even more secluded Little Hellfire Bay. It’s absolutely perfect.
The park entrance fee is $11 per car and it’s definitely worth it, especially if you’re camping. Pack a picnic and plenty of water, there are basic facilities at the two campsites if you want to BBQ some lunch or use the bathrooms.
I better not forget to mention Wave Rock, the Australians may get upset, they love rocks. Also, this is literally the only thing on the almost endless drive from Esperance to Perth.
You can have a photo taken in the wave, next to the wave and on top of the wave. It’s a neat rock. You can also walk through the bush to Hippo’s Yawn, another rock. Rocks for days…
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